As soon as I realized limitations of my Sony Cybershot T-70 point and shoot camera, I wanted to buy a DSLR. After going through so many reviews I decided to buy a Sony alpha A350X DSLR camera with 2 lenses. 18-70mm & 55-200mm to be specific. I got this down from Broadway Hongkong through one of my friends last month. I got 4GB Sandisk CF card, LCD protector and Camera bag free of charge from Broadway. After I purchase it, I realize there are so many other little accessories I need to have with the DSLR. So I end up purchasing a wireless shutter release, 2 UV protectors for my lenses, rubber blower with metal valves etc. I got these through ebay which is quite cheap.
After all these, again I realize I need one more thing. A Dry Box or Dry Cabinet. So I called 2 local shops in Colombo, Sri Lanka to check prices. I got shocked by listening to the price.
One shop wanted LKR 18,000/- (USD 169) for a Dry Box with analog meter and electrically rechargeable desiccants. Two of lower versions of available for LKR 4,500/- (USD 42) which is just a plastic box with some silica gel bags in it. Another cheep version was available with an analog meter with silica gel bags for LKR 7,500/- (USD 70).
For me Dry box is just a box which can keep the humidity lower than the outside humidity. So I decided to do some research on this to see whether I can build my own Dry Box and I ended up with this.
So I decided to share what I have done with others so anybody who is interested can build their own Dry Box for 20% of the cost of what is available at the shop. In my opinion this is better than what is available in the shop since this has a digital meter to show the humidity and this holds the camera and lenses from moving inside the box which adds more protection.
What have I done?
1.Found a box which can be fully sealed (air tight) which is adequate enough to put my gadgets. I ended up purchasing a Microwavable food container for LKR 1225/- (USD 11.50)
2.Then I bought a sponge of 4 inch thickness. LKR 380/- (USD 3.5 )
3.Digital Hygrometer with temperature meter from ebay. With shipping it was USD 11.98 ( Unit was 3.99 and shipping was 7.99)
4. Rechargeable dehumidifier from ebay for USD 15.99. This is the item which was difficult to find and I had to pay LKR 140/- as taxes for Sri Lanka customs.
So the total cost for me was USD 43 for the total solution.
Below are the items I have used and how I have made my Dry Box. This is quite simple. So I am not going to explain step by step. Hope pictures speaks for it self.
Tuesday, September 16, 2008
Wednesday, September 3, 2008
How to convert fixed satellite C Band dish to rotatable dish? DIY
I had this question in my mind for quite a some time and I have searched the web but without success. So I thought about it, and with a help of my friend Nilanka I have managed to make my eurostar powder coated fixed dish to rotatable semi automated dish. Cost was very minimal compared to a ready made rotatable dish. I thought of sharing the idea with others, so who ever interested can Do It Yourself.
Items used
1. Original 2' ring came with the fixed dish
2. 3'6" Galvanized pipe & 3 metal bars.
3. Old tire rod from my previous car
4. Used universal joint of a vehicle (Used spare parts shops are having these)
5. Adjustable pole which came with the original dish
5. Adjustable pole which came with the original dish
6. 24” eurostar actuator
7. 2 nos of on/off switches8. 16V 2.5A power adopter ( I got a old laptop power supply)
Method
Weld the universal joint to the center of the 2’ original ring with the use of 3 metal bars
Fix the tire rod to the side of the ring
Fix the adjustable bar, which came with the original dish to the tyre rod and with a clamp fix the other end to the galvanized pipe.
Fix the actuator to the ring. For more info on fixing the actuator, I found following article on the web http://www.satcrazy.com/install/intermid_les.html
Fix 2 switches to a small piece of box and one switch will work as a power on off switch and the other switch will work as polarity change of the power supplied to the actuator motor.
Now with the use of adjustable arm I can control the tilt to the east ( May be 10 degrees in Sri Lanka) and H-H movement through the actuator and those 2 switches.
It moves little slowly so stoping at the correct place is not a proble. ( H-H movement takes 2 mins on 16V, Origianl motor required voltage is 36V).
It moves little slowly so stoping at the correct place is not a proble. ( H-H movement takes 2 mins on 16V, Origianl motor required voltage is 36V).
More pictures.
Special Thanks to Nilanka @ http://www.nilanka.net/
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Disclaimer : Above DIY session has been done with the help of a quaified technician for welding and iron works. Please take extra precausions while attmpting this.
Copy Right Rasika Ambepitiyage 2007© rasika@ambepitiyage.com from Sri Lanka
Copy Right Rasika Ambepitiyage 2007© rasika@ambepitiyage.com from Sri Lanka
Labels:
C Band,
Dish Rotator,
DIY,
Rotatable Dish
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